500 g (1 lb) washed and cleaned green leaves 2 tablespoons mustard oil 1/8 teaspoon powdered asafoetida, optional 1/2 teaspoon cummin seeds 1 teaspoon dried fenugreek leaves, optional 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric 1/2 teaspoon ground fennel 2 fresh green chillies, seeded and sliced 1 cup diced potato, optional 1 teaspoon salt or to taste

Put the washed greens in a colander to drain. Heat oil in a karahi or saucepan and add asafoetida, cummin seeds, fenugreek leaves and ginger. Fry for 1 minute, stirring. Add the remaining ingredients, including the greens, stir well. Cover and cook until potatoes are soft, about 10 minutes. Add a little water if necessary. Serve with rice.

Put the well-washed spinach leaves into a pan with the water that clings to them, add the fenugreek leaves (if used), cover and steam until spinach is soft. Drain well and chop finely. Cut the ricotta into cubes and spread on absorbent paper for a few minutes so that surface moisture is absorbed. In a small, deep frying pan or karahi heat enough oil in which to deep fry the cubes of ricotta. Add a tablespoon of ghee to flavour the oil. When oil is very hot, fry a handful of ricotta cubes at a time. Have ready the turmeric stirred into 1 cup of hot water and when the ricotta is pale golden lift out on a slotted spoon and drop the cubes into the turmeric water. Repeat until all the ricotta is fried, leave in the water for about 5 minutes, then drain. Heat about 2 tablespoons of the oil in a saucepan and add the black cummin seeds, asafoetida, coriander, chilli powder and ginger. Stir and fry briefly, taking care not to burn the spices. Add the spinach and salt and stir for a minute or two, then add about 1/4 cup hot water and the sugar. Simmer for 5 minutes. Stir the yoghurt until it is smooth, add it to the spinach and stir well. Add cubes of panir and simmer for 10 minutes longer. Serve hot with rice or chapatis.

Wash the spinach well, discard any tough stems and roughly chop the leaves. Cut pumpkin into small cubes. String beans, if used, and cut into short lengths. Heat the oil in a karahi or saucepan and fry the tnustard seeds until they begin to pop. Add the onion and ginger and fry, stirring now and then, until onion is soft. Add turmeric and fry for 1 minute longer. Add hot water, cashews and all the vegetables, cover and simmer until they are tender, then remove lid and cook, stirring frequently, until liquid is reduced. Serve with rice or chapatis. If serving with rice, leave rather more liquid; if serving with chapatis, allow it to reach a drier consistency.

Scrub the potatoes well and cut into small cubes. Wash the spinach in several changes of water. Discard tough stems and put into a large saucepan with just the water that clings to the leaves. Cover and steam for 10 minutes or until tender, then chop roughly. Do not discard any liquid in pan. In a large frying pan or karahi heat the ghee or oil and fry mustard and cummin seeds until mustard seeds pop. Cover pan or they will fly all over the stove. Add turmeric, coriander, cummin and the chillies. Add potatoes, stir and fry for a few minutes, then add salt and about S cup water, cover and cook for 10 minutes. Add spinach, stir, cover and cook for 5 or 10 minutes longer. Sprinkle nutmeg over and serve with rice or chapatis.